Okay, can we talk about Korean skincare for a minute?
Because somewhere between the snail mucin, rice toners, glass skin tutorials, and 10-step routines, Korean skincare became the holy grail of skincare.
And listen, I'm not here to rain on anybody's K-beauty parade. There are some beautiful formulations coming out of South Korea, and the industry deserves credit for the innovation it's brought to skincare.
But lately, I've noticed something interesting. People aren't just buying Korean skincare because they like the products. They're buying it because they've been convinced that Korean skincare is somehow better than everything else.
Better ingredients. Better formulations. Better results.
And as someone who formulates skincare products for a living, that's where I start raising an eyebrow. Because a product being made in Korea doesn't automatically make it a good product.
So let's get into it.
Before There Was K-Beauty Hype, There Was a Philosophy
Here's something I wish more people understood about Korean skincare.
Long before the viral TikTok routines and aesthetically pleasing packaging, Korean beauty practices emphasized something that I personally appreciate...taking care of your skin before there's a problem to correct.
Now, let's be clear. Korea didn't invent moisturizing, sunscreen, or preventative skincare. And Korean beauty has never been one single philosophy shared by everyone. But the approach that helped shape modern K-beauty placed considerable attention on consistent care, hydration, and maintaining healthy-looking skin.
When Korean beauty brands gained traction in the United States during the 2010s, they helped introduce a skincare-first approach to consumers who were increasingly interested in maintaining their skin rather than simply covering imperfections. [1]
Instead of treating skincare like an emergency response every time a breakout appears, the idea was to care for your skin regularly. Hydrate it. Protect it. Be consistent.
Sound familiar? It's a philosophy that aligns with how I approach skincare at SOMA.
I would much rather help someone maintain healthy skin than constantly put their skin through aggressive treatments trying to correct problems that could have been prevented or minimized.
And while today's skin barrier conversations have become a little excessive (we'll save that discussion for another day), I appreciate that K-beauty helped bring more attention to skin hydration and barrier care. The funny thing is, somewhere along the way, the conversation shifted. What started as an emphasis on caring for the skin became a shopping list of products people felt they needed to own.
And that's where things get interesting.
So Why Is Everybody Obsessed With Korean Skincare?
First, the popularity isn't imaginary.
Korean beauty has experienced substantial international growth. In the first quarter of 2026, Circana reported a 23% increase in U.S. prestige retail dollar sales for Korean beauty brands. [1]
And NielsenIQ reported that global K-beauty value sales increased 53% year over year, highlighting the influence of social commerce, ingredient innovation, and international demand. [2]
That's not just your favorite influencer convincing a few people to buy another toner.
K-beauty has become a serious player in the global skincare market.
And I can understand why.
The product textures? Often beautiful.
The packaging? Usually catches your attention.
The lightweight hydrating formulas? Very appealing, especially if you're tired of moisturizers that feel like you've rubbed cooking grease on your face.
Korean brands have also helped introduce many consumers to product formats like essences, ampoules, and hydrating toners.
Then there's the ingredient conversation...snail mucin, centella asiatica, rice extracts, and fermented ingredients. Suddenly, everybody has a favorite ingredient they swear changed their entire face.
And don't even get me started on glass skin.
But here's my question, are we falling in love with the actual formulations, or are we falling in love with how these products are being marketed to us?
Because those are two very different things.
Not All Korean Skincare Is Created Equal. Yes, I Said It.
I think this is where we need to have a more balanced conversation.
Some consumers have started treating the words Korean skincare like a stamp of approval. As if every product coming out of South Korea has been personally blessed by the skincare gods.
That's simply not how formulation works.
There are excellent Korean skincare brands. There are average Korean skincare brands. And there are products that may not be suitable for your skin at all. The same is true for American, French, Japanese, and every other category of skincare. Country of origin doesn't tell me whether a product is well formulated.
When I'm evaluating a skincare product, I'm looking at what the ingredients are supposed to do, how the formula is designed, and whether it makes sense for the skin concern being addressed. I'm also interested in the evidence supporting the claims.
Because you can put centella asiatica on the front of a bottle in beautiful lettering, but that doesn't automatically tell me how much is in the product or how the finished formulation performs.
And that brings me to another issue.
Just Because It Says "Soothing" Doesn't Mean Your Skin Will Agree
Let's say you purchase a viral Korean serum because everyone says it's amazing for sensitive skin. You start using it, and a few days later your face is irritated. Now you're confused because the product was supposed to be gentle.
Here's the thing...
A formula can contain ingredients associated with soothing properties and still include other components that don't agree with your skin. Even ingredients that are generally well tolerated can cause reactions in certain people.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, skincare ingredients, including certain preservatives and fragrance components, can trigger allergic contact dermatitis. Dermatologists recommend testing new skincare products before incorporating them into your routine. [3]
And if you're layering that new serum with three other products you discovered on TikTok last week, figuring out what's causing the irritation becomes even more difficult. This isn't unique to Korean skincare.
It's a reminder that a product's reputation doesn't override your skin's individual needs.
I don't care how many five-star reviews something has. If your skin doesn't tolerate it, those reviews aren't going to help you.
Can We Stop Buying Skincare Just Because an Ingredient Went Viral?
Please? Because this is probably one of my biggest frustrations as a formulator.
An ingredient starts trending, and suddenly it's in everything. Everyone wants snail mucin. Everyone wants centella. Everyone wants rice water. And I'm not saying these ingredients don't have value. I'm saying we need to stop treating an ingredient's name like it's the entire formulation.
Let's use centella asiatica as an example. Centella contains compounds such as asiaticoside and madecassoside that have been investigated for their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and skin-supporting properties.
A 2025 scientific review examined research on centella's potential applications in skin health, including barrier support, wound repair, and photoaging. While findings are promising, the strength of evidence varies by application and formulation. [4]
Great. But that doesn't mean every product containing centella will produce the same results. How much is included? What type of extract is being used? What other ingredients are in the formula? Is there evidence that the finished product delivers the benefit being advertised?
Those are the questions I care about. And they're the questions I wish more consumers would ask.
A good ingredient doesn't automatically equal a good product.
You can have a beautifully formulated product with a relatively simple ingredient list. You can also have a product packed with trendy extracts that doesn't do much beyond providing basic hydration.
Neither the number of ingredients nor how exotic they sound determines the quality of the product. It's the formulation that matters.
And About Those 10-Step Skincare Routines...
Listen, I love a good skincare ritual. I'm an esthetician. Of course I do.
But somewhere along the way, people started believing they needed a cleansing oil, water-based cleanser, exfoliant, toner, essence, ampoule, serum, sheet mask, moisturizer, and sleeping mask just to have healthy skin.
Ma'am, your face is not asking for a full-time employee.
Now, there's nothing inherently wrong with layering multiple products. Some people genuinely enjoy a longer routine, and certain products can complement one another. But more products don't automatically mean better results. And depending on what you're layering, you could be increasing your risk of irritation. Especially when you're combining multiple exfoliating acids, retinoids, or other potentially irritating treatments without understanding how they work together.
For some people, a gentle cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen are enough for a solid daily routine. For others, adding a targeted serum makes sense. The point is to choose products that serve a purpose. Not products that make your bathroom counter look like a skincare boutique.
You Don't Need Korean Skincare to Have Healthy Skin
Now, before somebody comes for me, let me say this again.
I'm not against Korean skincare.
I'm against the idea that one country's skincare products are automatically superior to another's. And I certainly don't believe you need to replace your entire routine just because someone on social media told you Korean skincare is the secret to beautiful skin.
At SOMA, I formulate products around specific skin needs. Not trends. Not viral ingredients for the sake of having them. And definitely not the idea that you need twelve different products to take care of your face.
So if you're drawn to Korean skincare because you want hydration, barrier support, or a simpler approach to maintaining healthy skin, let's talk about what that could look like without overcomplicating your routine.
If You're Looking for Gentle Daily Cleansing
Start with your cleanser.
Seriously.
You can spend all the money you want on serums, but if your cleanser consistently leaves your skin feeling tight and uncomfortable, we need to look at that first. The goal is effective everyday cleansing without making your skin feel unnecessarily stripped. And no, your face doesn't need to feel squeaky clean to actually be clean.
If Your Skin Needs More Hydration
You don't necessarily need three toners and two essences. Sometimes a well-formulated hydrating serum can give you what you're looking for. Soma's HYDRABOOST is formulated with hyaluronic acid, oat extract, and other hydrating ingredients. Hyaluronic acid functions as a humectant, helping attract and retain water in the skin.
It's an example of choosing a product because of what it's designed to do rather than because it belongs to a particular skincare trend.
If You're Focused on Moisture and Barrier Support
Let's talk about moisturizers, because a good moisturizer does more than make your face feel soft for five minutes. Depending on its formulation, a moisturizer can help reduce water loss and improve how comfortable your skin feels.
If your skin needs more nourishment, choosing a moisturizer that addresses that need may be more useful than adding another trendy essence.
And of course, none of these products replace daily sunscreen.
The takeaway isn't that other products are better than Korean skincare. It's that you have options. You can build a thoughtful skincare routine without limiting yourself to one country, one trend, or one viral product category.
So, Is Korean Skincare Actually Better?
My answer?
Not automatically.
And I think that's an important distinction.
Korean skincare has contributed meaningful innovation to the beauty industry. Its emphasis on hydration, consistency, and thoughtful skincare routines deserves recognition. There are Korean brands producing excellent products, and I have no problem giving credit where it's due. But I also think we've allowed marketing and social media to convince us that the words Korean skincare automatically mean better skincare.
They don't.
A product should earn your trust because of its formulation, supporting evidence, and how well it meets your skin's needs. Not because of where it was manufactured.
So if you love your Korean skincare routine and your skin is thriving, keep enjoying it. But if you're considering tossing everything you own because somebody on TikTok told you that Korean skincare is the only way to achieve healthy skin?
Girl, keep your money for a minute. Take a look at what you're already using, what your skin actually needs, and whether another product is necessary. Because sometimes the best thing you can do for your skin isn't adding something new. It's being more intentional about what you're already putting on it.
Want a simpler, more purposeful skincare routine? Explore the Soma skincare collection and discover products formulated with your skin's needs in mind.
xo, Frankie
References & Further Reading
[1] Circana. (2026, May 20). The Second Coming of K-Beauty. Industry analysis examining Korean beauty's growth in the United States, including first-quarter 2026 retail performance.
https://www.circana.com/post/the-second-coming-of-k-beauty
[2] NielsenIQ. (2026, July 15). K-Beauty Goes Global: Sales Surge 53% as Korean Innovation Reshapes Beauty Growth. Market research examining global Korean beauty sales, social commerce and international demand.
[3] American Academy of Dermatology Association. How to Test Skin Care Products. Dermatologist recommendations for identifying potential skin irritation and testing new skincare products.
[4] Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. in Skin Health and Cosmeceuticals: Mechanisms, Clinical Evidence, and Advanced Delivery Systems. (2025). Pharmacia, 72. Scientific review examining centella's bioactive compounds, dermatological applications and limitations of available evidence.
https://doi.org/10.3897/pharmacia.72.e167217
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